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Walking the sidewalks of fashion with Yohji Yamamoto

January 23, 2015 | Valentina | Comments (2) Facebook Twitter More...

 

Fashion often begins with being 'in';  it's something that moves us to look and follow new trends. Identity and personal style are 'out' for the fashion industry.

Japanese designer, Yohji Yamamoto creates clothing for people who are creative, independent and in search of their own individuality. Indifferent to stereotypes, he molds fabric into original, intellectual, texturized pieces and teaches us how to love them, live with them and never treat them seasonally. Layered and comfortable, often oversized, his clothing is for protection. His aim is to protect bodies but also to protect clothing itself from fashion.

 My Dear Bomb by Yohji Yamamoto  Yamamoto & Yohji by Rizzoli Press

When Yamamoto presented his first collection in Paris 1981, his style was considered a passing fad, marginal, a mere copy of the contemporary street looks of the East. As with any acquired taste his creations were never in or out of style. He remains provocative, a brave rebel challenging "nowadays, especially in Tokyo, New York and Los Angeles, (where) everything is covered by fast fashion. Faster, faster, cheaper, cheaper. People have started wasting fashion".

Talking to myself by Yohji Yamamoto  

Notebook on Cities and Clothes is a documentary film about Yohji Yamamoto directed by Wim Wenders. Not interested in fashion or clothes himself but faced with this assignment, Wenders decided to make a documentary about the designer whose shirt and a jacket he was wearing, whose clothing made him feel as safe and protected as "the knight in the armour". They search for originality and humanity in the world that is becoming a commercialized copy.

In 1994, Yamamoto received the Knight Order of Arts and Letters from France. In 2011, the Victoria and Albert Museum held a retrospective exhibition of his work, and in 2013 Berlin’s Gallery Weekend had a four-day marathon of iconic pieces from the last 30 years of his career.

  

Now 72 years old, Yohji Yamamoto is still an anti-fashionista and an introspective conceptualist who takes a critical stance on the fashion world: “I hate fashion. Or the word fashion, which sounds colourful, extravagant, expensive and gorgeous, I never wanted to walk the main street of fashion. I have been walking the sidewalks of fashion from the beginning, so I’m a bit dark.” As he insists, his "soul comes through his fingertips": "If one keeps these things in mind and looks very carefully, the fabric itself begins to speak. This is the type of clothing I wish to become."

 Yohji Yamamoto by V & A publishing  Yohji Yamamoto by Assouline Press 

His work can be found in all general books about Japanese fashion designers.   

    Japanese Fashion Designers

 

January Art Shows in Toronto

January 20, 2015 | Brent | Comments (1) Facebook Twitter More...

If you are ready brave to the cold, January is bringing an unusually generous number of big art shows to Toronto which will tide art lovers over at least until March. Whether you're preparing for a cultural expedition or settling down with a big cup of cider afterwards, Toronto Public Library has books to help enrich the experience.

Royal Ontario Museum and MOCCA

On January 31st, the Royal Ontario Museum and the Museum of Contemporary Canadian Art will collaborate on a major retrospective Douglas Coupland: everywhere is anywhere is anything is everything. Work by the artist/novelist/essayist will appear at both venues. A week earlier on January 22, Daniel Faria, Coupland's Toronto gallery, will launch an additional show.

What exactly does it mean to be "modern" in the 21st century? And does being a modern Canadian mean something different? Coupland's work fuses traditional Canadiana with arch appropriations from American Pop and sly references to a generation of media savvy Canadian artists such as General Idea, Michael Morris, Vincent Trasov and Tim Jocelyn.

                      Everywhere is anywhere is anything is everything       Worst, person, ever

Art Gallery of Ontario

Suzy Lake's major retrospective is still in full swing until March 22nd. Her long career survey--including huge photo murals--explores issues of identity, representation, feminism and aging. A huge influence on the early work of Cindy Sherman, her catalogue is a must see, especially for viewers interested in the history of Women's art.

Introducing Suzy Lake

Art Spiegelman’s CO-MIX: A Retrospective follows his early work (like the notorious "Garbage Pail Kids"), through his pioneering magazine RAW, his Pulitzer Prize winning Holocaust memoir Maus, and his memorable tenure at the New Yorker. The show closes on March 15th.  

           The best of Comix Book       MetaMaus

Jean-Michel Basquiat: Now's the Time will run from February 7 to May 10. In the middle of the 1980s when German Neo-Expressionism dominated the art world, Basquiat reasserted Modernism's roots in African art. He melded graffiti, cartoons and Abstract Expressionist scrawls with images from Black history including African artifacts, jazz pioneers like Charlie Parker and political figures like Malcolm X.

         http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51v4b0vtR9L.jpg    Reading Basquiat   

The Power Plant

The Unfinished Conversation: Encoding/Decoding draws from the writing of media theorist Stuart Hall who argued that viewers actively interpret television messages according to their personal social contexts. But this process of communication doesn't end at reception; messages are further reinterpreted and reproduced within those social contexts. Hall's essays, especially 'Encoding and Decoding in the Television Discourse,' are a standard texts for both media studies and Black History students. Many visitors to this group show, opening January 24th, will be particularly interested in the work of artist Steve McQueen, the Academy Award winning director of "12 Years a Slave."

     http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41KCyhZ6m9L._SY344_BO1,204,203,200_.jpg    12 years a slave   

This is just a small sampling of what the city has to offer this season. To learn more, why not pick up a copy of Slate or visit the Arts Department on the 5th floor of Toronto Reference Library?

Good eats make for great tweets!

January 13, 2015 | Irene | Comments (4) Facebook Twitter More...

Have you ever gone out to eat and taken a picture of your plate or drink before tucking in? Are your friends obsessed with posting pics of their food adventures, via Twitter, Facebook or Instagram? I know my own phone is filled with images of meals prepared for or by me as well as restaurant meals. 

Kale sandwich

Above is Ann Esselstyn’s Kale and Lemon sandwich – before the kale -- and with pickled red onion instead of tomatoes. It's versatile and totally delish. Did you know that Meyer lemons are the sweetest but any lemon will work.

Picton peas

                   Fresh peas from Prince Edward County.   

Bar volo

A delicious platter from Bar Volo. 

Wolfville cottage

Wolfville, NS cottage – before the food.

Even the format of cookbooks has significantly changed over the years. No longer are they just a list of ingredients and directions with a couple of illustrations thrown in. Many now take the form of travelogues or lifestyle books with lots of beautiful food styling. One of my all time fave cookbooks Seductions of Rice is by a duo of Toronto authors Naomi Duguid and Jeffrey Alford. They did several award winning cookbooks together and in the style of a travelogue each one stunningly documents their time spent researching the food and customs of a specific region.

Mangoes curry leaves  Hot sour sweet salty  Beyond the great wall

In recent years many cookbooks have evolved from successful food blogs. The production values and photography make for some great eye candy as well as dinner get togethers!

Oh she glows  Smitten kitchen  Thug kitchen

 

The forest feasts  Food in jars  Isa does it

I still have a very tattered recipe book in which I record my favorite recipes.

Recipe book
Technology will never replace the recipe book above or my growing collection of cookbooks. I also play with digital ways of keeping track of recipes. If you don't want to be bothered with keeping track of recipes but want access to them this article from Digital Trends provides a nice list of recipe apps.

It seems that wherever we look there are beautifully styled, mouthwatering images of food. You can even take classes that help improve your own food "phoneography" skills. “Why we Tweet before we eat” a Toronto Star article by food writer Corey Mintz from October 2014 takes a look at the food phoneography phenomenon.

Whether you aspire to keeping your own food blog or just want to document recipe successes and failures or memorable social gatherings in a more visual way, here are some suggestions from the stacks.

Food photography for bloogers More digital food photography

Food photography

Food styling 

Audition material for Plays, Shows and Musical Theatre at the Toronto Reference Library, 5th Floor

January 7, 2015 | Wendy | Comments (10) Facebook Twitter More...

We have audition material for upcoming plays and shows that you can use at the Arts Department, 5th floor of Toronto Reference Library (the list is updated regularly).  

 

New Auditions:

 

 

Know of an upcoming audition

Tell us in person, call the 5th floor Arts Desk at 416-393-7157, or email us at trlarts@torontopubliclibrary.ca. Want to leave your script here so you can refer actors to us?  We do that too.                

 

Toronto Reference Library has an extensive collection of monologues for all your audition needs! Come to the Arts Department on the 5th floor to sample some...

Monologues for Women

Monologues for Men

Canadian Monologues

Multicultural and LGBT gay/lesbian monologues

 

Audition items are for use in the library only and on first come first served basis.  There are sometimes copies at other branches that you can borrow or reserve.  We do have photocopying - but you'll need a copy card or blue or white library card - remember to add money at the Main 1st floor information desk. We are on the 5th floor - Arts Department desk - Toronto Reference Library -  thank you and knock'm dead.

Mid-Century Modern Complete

January 3, 2015 | Bill V. | Comments (0) Facebook Twitter More...

A great book, Mid-Century Modern Complete, recently arrived at many local branches. It's big and heavily illustrated with large scale photographs. The arrangement is thematic: furniture, lighting, glass and ceramics, textiles, product and industrial design, graphics and posters, houses and interiors and lastly A-Z of designers and makers. Each section is internally arranged alphabetically by designer. There's a lot of useful text and information that work wonderfully with the illustrations. 

I highly recommend it as both easy to browse through and easy to look up specific designers. I also like how it crosses many genres.  

Toronto Public Library has an extensive collection on mid-century modern design. Our Pinterest board has most of our books listed on it (enhanced by select images pinned onto the board). 

Mid-Century Modern Complete Dominic Bradbury

Amazing Grace Kelly

December 24, 2014 | Muriel | Comments (0) Facebook Twitter More...

I went to see the Grace Kelly exhibition at the TIFF Bell Lightbox on King Street West (it is on until January 22).  I was surprised by how intimate a portrait of her it presented, with many of her personal possessions on display, from letters, home movies, clothing and jewellery to items from the public realm such as her film posters.  Luckily for her curious fans, Grace Kelly described herself as "...one of those people who keeps everything."  Growing up in Philadelphia, Grace Kelly knew by age 11 that she wanted to be an actress.  She performed on stage and then in films, and at age 25 won an Academy Award for playing Georgie Elgin in The Country Girl.  The dress (seen below) which she wore to accept that Academy Award is on display at the exhibition.

      

Examples of Grace Kelly's classic elegance are plentiful at this exhibition.  In 1955 Grace Kelly went with the famed Hollywood costume designer Edith Head to Paris to buy accessories at Hermès for Alfred Hitchcock's film, To Catch a Thief.  It was at Hermès that they bought the bag which became known as the Kelly bag, after Grace.


 
GraceKelly,jpg     GraceKellyStyle     TheHermesScarf

In May 1955 Grace Kelly attended the Cannes Film Festival and it was there, at a Paris Match photo shoot, that she met Prince Rainier of Monaco.  The following April, Grace Kelly married Prince Rainier at a lavish wedding ceremony in Monte Carlo.  Helen Rose designed her wedding dress, and an exact replica of it is on display, along with archival footage of both the religious and civil wedding ceremonies.

  

After her wedding, the now-Princess Grace's world became even more glamorous than that of a Hollywood film star.  In 1956 Van Cleef & Arpels became official jeweller to the Princely House of Monaco, and Princess Grace wore haute couture gowns.  There is a strikingly modern purple Givenchy evening dress on display, as well as a delicate blue chiffon Christian Dior evening gown, amongst other couture gowns and outfits.  Grace Kelly was nearsighted, and extended her style to her eyeglasses, which included several pairs by Oliver Goldsmith.

SetinStyle           ChristianDior     Eyewear

Princess Grace had a passion for pressing flowers and there are several large framed examples of her artwork.  She even wrote My Book of Flowers about flowers and her techniques.  The greatest treat in the exhibition for me, however, is at the end where home movies are shown of a relaxed and very happy Princess Grace with her family.

PreservingFlowers           HighSociety           GraceKellyYears



The best Christmas song 2014 is... Es ist ein Ros entsprungen

December 23, 2014 | Bill V. | Comments (3) Facebook Twitter More...

This year I've gone more traditional in my choice for best Christmas song. It's a bow to my husband Richard and his cousin Elizabeth. At the same time it's a lovely carol that will be familiar to many.

"Es ist ein Ros entsprungen" ( Lo, How a Rose E'er Blooming ) is a traditional German song printed in Cologne in 1599 and with later harmonization written by German composer Michale Praetorius in 1609. The song was translated into English by Theodore Baker in 1894 as "Lo, How a Rose E'er Blooming".

There are many versions online but for me, one of the most moving is the version below:

 

There is a fun flash mob version here which is a bit more contemporary:

 

 An English version by John Rutter and The Cambridge Singers (amateur score included):

 

And for something completely different, there's even a version by Sting:

 


I would also like to suggest one of Toronto Public Library's online resources - Naxos Music Library.  You can listen to great music spanning medieval to modern and find expert educational content as well. If you like organ music, you would likely enjoy the Brahms' version "Es ist ein Ros entsprungen" found through Naxos as well.

I tried a quick search of "Es ist ein Ros' entsprungen" and listened to many different variations for free through online streaming.  All you need is your Toronto Public library card and your PIN. In our catalogue simply search for Naxos and it's very easy to use after that. 

                                 Naxos Music Library

There are 24 CDs in Toronto Public Library's collection that have this song. You can borrow most of these from your local library branch and there's a wide variety of singers and styles. We also have sheet music for it available to borrow.

 Measha Bruegger-Gosman's Christmas  Noël! Christmas! Weihnachten!

  Christmas with the Trapp Family Singers   In dulci jubilo  beautiful Christmas melodies

If you're interested in some of my earlier song choices, you may enjoy them below:

 
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

I want a goat for Christmas

December 16, 2014 | Bill V. | Comments (2) Facebook Twitter More...

This Christmas I want a goat.  I would also be happy with two hens and a rooster.  

Like many, I don't want more stuff.  In fact, I struggle with the stuff I have and I am not alone in the battle with clutter and overconsumption. I yearn for a simpler life.  I also want an ethical and value centered relationship with possessions (from a green and also economic justice point of view). I know these are "first world" problems, nonetheless they are my problems and maybe yours.

Along with too much stuff, comes the difficulty at Christmas of how much to spend and what to buy or receive from family. I remember the year I suggested to the adults that we make charitable donations instead of gifts. I feared for my life at the outcry. For several years I asked my elderly parents for gifts of food instead of objects or money.  Consumables was the way to go. But, as my parents aged, it became increasingly hard and stressful for them to go out and buy it for us.

 

Goat - $75

So, a few years ago, my husband gave me a goat from Plan Canada. Goats are hardy foragers, provide milk (nutritious and easy to digest), cheese, wool and meat (sorry goat).  My parents, having grown up in rural Maceodonia, were well aware of the value of goats, and were faintly amused by the idea. According to their website Plan Canada is "not for profit, independent, and inclusive of all faiths and cultures, we have only one agenda: to improve the lives of children."  

 


World Vision Canada also provides a similar type of service. According to their website they "help children, their families, and their communities by responding to the root causes of poverty." In addition to animals they also offer fruit trees and farming packets. They have a most needed category which includes feed a hungry family in Canada, build a community latrine, clean water for a family, stock a medical clinic etc.   

 

I like donating to the modest, but deeply satisfying, Sleeping Children Around the World (SCAW).  Their focus is good sleep for children. They work in partnership with indigenous Kiwanis groups and locally sourced products.  They're frugal and careful with your money.

 

According to their website  "SCAW donations provide bedkits to children of any race and/or religion who will benefit the most; typically being located in underdeveloped and developing countries. No portion of a bedkit donation is spent on administration — 100% reaches a needy child. Each $35.00 donation (Canadian funds) provides a bedkit that consists of a mat or mattress, pillow, sheet, blanket, mosquito net (if applicable), clothes outfit, and school supplies. Bedkit contents vary from country to country depending upon local needs."  They've distributed over 1.4 million bedkits.

 

The Financial Post writes on their top 25 Canadian charities, evaluating them on transparency and financial accountability, which makes interesting reading (the three I've highlighted here all make the grade). If you're looking to evaluate Canadian charities you will be interested in the organization Charity Intelligence Canada (Ci).  They use analytical research techniques to find exceptional charities for donors ... as they say "not just 'do gooders' but 'good doers', too".

 

If you're interested in some of the subjects I've touched on you may like these books:

  Buying into fair trade culture, morality, and consumption            Green consumption  the global rise of eco-chic         Crass struggle  glitz, greed, and gluttony in a wanna-have world


  Spend shift how the post-crisis values revolution is changing the way we buy, sell, and live         Overdressed  the shockingly high cost of cheap fashion       The 100 thing challenge how I got rid of almost everything, remade my life, and regained my soul


  The story of stuff  how our obsession with stuff is trashing the planet, our communities, and our health--and a vision for change         How much is enough  Buddhism, consumerism, and the human environment      Gifts from the heart  simple ways to make your family's Christmas more meaningful


Year round libraries, especially where I work at the Toronto Reference Library, see a lot of marginalized folks, those who struggle with poverty, loneliness, addiction or mental health issues.  So I am also moved by the work of the Good Shepherd Ministries who work in downtown Toronto with the homeless - they serve 1300 meals a day.  

During the holidays many of us will show generosity, compassion and kindness to help out a neighbor or stranger.  Can I ask you this year instead of another white elephant gift, instead of another martini at a bar, instead of another gift card to someone who has enough, consider donating to a charity that moves you and speaks to your condition.  Merry Christmas.

   

 

 

 

 

Santa in Pictures

December 11, 2014 | Brent | Comments (2) Facebook Twitter More...

Santa picture collection at Toronto Reference Library

The Picture Collection on the 5th floor Arts Department of Toronto Reference Library is looking very Christmassy this morning.

 

Windows

So are the windows directly above our display case.

Picture Collection

They actually do look rather pretty together.

 

It's the season for Christmas song requests

December 8, 2014 | Bill V. | Comments (4) Facebook Twitter More...

Requests for Christmas sheet music and scores have been pouring in the last couple of weeks.  I know because the Arts Department of the Toronto Reference Library has the largest collection of scores and sheet music that you can borrow or copy in Toronto.

We shelve the books so I'm very aware of the increased use. We "styled" these books in the photo below but the skylight lighting effect was a happy festive coincidence.

We get a variety of users but I was struck by one who seemed a bit rough around the edges asking for Jingle Bell Rock. We talked a bit and he told me he's a street musician, has played this song in various cities and street corners all over Toronto.

 

Christmas song score books at the Toronto Reference Library 1
photo B. Cehan.

 

If you're interested in Chanukah music one of our bloggers, Jorge, has done a great blog post on that music including CDs and also music scores / sheet music that you can borrow.

The last few years I've blogged about my favorite Christmas songs - see what you think:

 

 

 

The library's blog devoted to the discovery of diverse artistic and cultural works in the library and Toronto. For more information on what the library has to offer please see our Theatre & Performing Arts page